父母移民福利问题

父母最近从173转143签证了。跟许多这里的朋友一样，面对着同样的压力，所以也比较关心关于他们的福利问题。以下是我所知道的一些信息（维省），跟大家分享一下：
1.Medicare Card (国民医疗卡）。到bulk bill的医生诊所去看病，不需要花钱，一般的抽血检验都不需要钱，但是不能做得太过频繁，一般来说每年一次。如果说在吃药控制3高的，在医生的指引下是可以每半年一次。（医生建议）。 如果是去做B超或是拍片的话，一般自己都要负担40%左右。处方药要自己付钱。
2.成为正式的PR之后，如果父母都到60岁，可以申请老人卡（Senior Card). 到post office拿一个表格（或是上网下载），填好，请有资格的人做Statutory Declaration。申请一般要等3-5个星期，他们会同时寄一个myki 的车卡。只要帮他们注册，网上转点钱他们就可以用了。享受半价的车票优惠，星期六日不用钱坐车，即使跨区，一天的车票钱$3.80（2013涨价了）.像我爸喜欢钓鱼的，垂钓不用买钓鱼证。 具体的资料请看：http://www.dpcd.vic.gov.au/seniors/seniorscard/； http://www.myki.com.au/Fares/Far ... -fares/default.aspx
3.成为正式的PR之后，住满两年，可以申请低收入者的健康卡（Health Care Cards），适合于处方药, 以我父亲购买高血压和降血脂的药为例,无论药的原价是多少,只需支付$6一盒，请注意，申请人是低于可以拿到老人金的年龄。
4.成为正式的PR之后，父母的年龄达到老人金（Age pension)年龄的要求，那么可以直接申请联邦政府老人健康卡（Commonwealth Seniors Health Card (CSHC)），申请该卡必须在澳洲居住满104周，可以在满65周岁前3个月申请,，并且是PR就可以领取。而且，有可能符合拿到老人资助金（Seniors Supplement)的资格.目前这个资助金是每个季度发放一次。对于领取这个资助金的资格，最近福利局更改了发放的资格规定。 原来是在每个季度里，如果你符合资格的，都可以按天数来领取。 现在的规定是，必须是整个季度都是符合领取的资格，才会发放这个资助金。如果你只是部分符合，那么就整个季度的资助金都不能领取。
还有无论是持有收入者的健康卡（Health Care Cards）或是联邦政府老人健康卡（Commonwealth Seniors Health Card (CSHC)），只要离境超过6个星期，这个卡就会被取消。 还有要注意的是，持有这两种卡的父母，在离境的时候，要打电话到福利局，告知他们父母的离境和入境的确实日期，回来了之后，也要给福利局打个电话，他们的卡才可以继续使用。 估计低收入的健康卡是要重新申请的。
The rate of Seniors Supplement is:
* single customers - $845.00 per annum
* partnered customers - $637.00 per annum ($1274 两个人）
* illness separated, respite care or partner in gaol - $806.00 per annum.
Seniors Supplement will be paid each quarter, shortly after 20 March, 20 June, 20 September and 20 December.
具体的资料请看：http://www.centrelink.gov.au/
5.对于拿到PR十年之后可以领取的老人金，大家的说法都不一。根据centerlink上age pension里面对于residential的要求，申请人必须在澳洲居住10年后，而且必须有一个居住期间是连续居住5年的。
Centerlink 的原文： The 10-year Australian resident requirement means you have been an Australian resident for a continuous period of at least 10 years, or for a number of periods which total more than 10 years, with one of the periods being at least 5 years.
从2013年1月1日起，领取养老金的老人，如果离境超过6周，领取的福利金额会相应减少。如果离澳的时间超过26周，福利将会再次减少。
请大家注意，从2013财政年度开始，子女赡养父母的退税福利取消了。
以上是我的一点总结，希望对大家都有点帮助。
谢谢大家的反响，我会尽力地去更新一些的内容，说得更明确点。但是同时也提醒各位注意，这里只是代表我个人了解到的信息和自己在相关政府网站看到的信息，带有个人的理解成分，并不代表专业的意见，只是作为参考。如果各位需要了解更详细的内容，请浏览政府的相关网页。谢谢各位的提点。

对于排队10多年移民的父母，他们拿到签证后就像普通的技术移民一样，等满了104周就可以拿相关的福利（除了medicare card之外）。这里指的福利是指有centerlink支付的。 还有付费移民的朋友们提个醒，请不要忽略我们在签AOS里面的承诺，因为在AOS里面，我们承诺了父母在10年是不可以领取大部分的福利的。所以，一切也只能到10年后再说了。对于申请政府的福利房，有资格申请福利金的老人才可以提上申请的，所以大家还是耐心的等候吧。

父母移民的个人体会

首先声明的是，我不是移民律师，以下的观点是我调查研究倾听的结果，希望对将要给自己父母办移民的朋友有帮助。政策是否有变动不得而知，一切以澳洲移民局网站的信息为准。说错不负责。

父母移民首先要通过子女测试，即至少有一半或一半以上的子女为澳洲永居或公民身份。
父母移民可以在澳洲境内交表，也可以在澳洲境外交表。

在澳洲境内交表。
从大陆来的父母现在已经不大可能在境内交表。由中国境内澳洲使馆签发的临时旅游或探亲签证，都加盖一条8503不能逾期条款，以阻止父母在澳洲境内办理移民。如果有幸移民官忘了附加8503条款，父母只需将移民表格送到附近的移民局即可。在境内交表有年龄限制，必须为退休年龄父母，即男65岁以上，女方年龄要查移民局表格，不同出生年，有不同年龄要求，但至少61岁。只要有一人达到要求即可。

境外交表。
表格可以在澳洲境内由子女邮寄到柏斯境外父母移民中心，但父母本人在交表时必须置身境外。没有年龄限制。

父母移民有两类，付费的和不付费的。
不付费父母移民。
审理期是三年（36个月），一般最快3年半，最后体检过关之后，会通知申请人排上队了。排队年数依排队人数而定，每年一千个名额。我调查的结果是：在2005年时，2005年5月份排上队的人前面有1万多人，即从现在起要等九年。从交表到批准大约是13年。现在排上队的人前面有多少人不得而知。在最后批准之前，还有一次体检。如果体检过关即发出批准函。境外申请费＄1340，境内申请费＄1990。签发费每人＄1165，保证金大约3500，具体数字不清楚，保证期两年。

付费父母移民。
每年3500个名额。付费父母移民有两种签证，一种是一次交清签证，另一种两年之内交清。如果单亲父或母， 加1万保证金，如果双亲父母，加1万4保证金。保证期为十年，如果十年内父母没有向福利部申请过福利金，保证金连本带利还给保证人，同时保证人十年内不得担保其他任何人。审理期为15个月，没有等候期。一般从交表起算，一年半之后可以登陆。境外申请费＄1340，境内申请费＄1990。签发费每人＄29330

大家关心的问题。
不付费父母移民，是否在登陆之后两年可以领取养老金或其它福利金？
不可以，无论付费和不付费父母移民都要在澳洲永居十年之后才能领取养老金。其它类福利金：以父母移民签证入境的父母，如果落地之后，成为残障人士可以领取残障人津贴，落地之前已经是残障人士的不能领取残障津贴。如果父母落地之后又生孩子，可以领取家庭税务津贴AB，但没有父母津贴。不能领取新开始津贴和学习津贴。

养老金如何发放？
父母必须在领取养老金之前五年在澳洲连续居住。连续居住的意义为：不得滞留海外超过三个月，但如果父母证明自己为澳洲居民可以容许滞留至六个月。澳洲居民的意义为：在澳洲有房产，还有几条，忘了。

父母移民之后的医疗
无论付费的和不付费的移民父母，在落地之后，即有Medicare卡，落地之后两年内看家庭医生及住院治疗免费，但买家庭医生开的处方药，为全自费，大约每剂＄25；住满两年之后，可以申请健康卡，用健康卡买处方药为福利折扣价，大约每剂＄4多。

可否只办理一个父或母移民，另外一个不办？
可以。但是在办理一个父或母移民时，表格有一项问为什么另一个父母不移民。如果将来另一个父母又要移民，依然要交同样费用，有永居身份的那个父母不能担保另外一个办理最后亲属移民或配偶移民。

如果付费父母非要在十年保证期内领取养老金会怎么样？
付费父母在保证期内领取养老金，养老金将从保证金内扣除，扣光以后，将由保证人负担，如果保证人没有能力负担，所有的金额将成为保证人欠联邦政府的债务。

如果不付费父母在十年养老金发放期限前要求领取养老金，怎么办？
福利部没有给我明确答复，只是说不可以。不付费父母在落地之后两年内有担保人和保证金。两年之后到可以领取养老金之时，之间有八年，如果有极端情况该如何对待？对不起，我也不知道。
移民局网站：http://www.immi.gov.au
福利部网站：http://www.centrelink.gov.au

澳洲老年化已经日趋严重，老年人不能为社会创造财富，澳洲不欢迎老年人给纳税人增加负担。从西方国家英美法等国家移民来的老年人都是带着自己的老年金，大约一对老年人要求有每年五万澳币的养老金收入，才能以退休签证进入澳洲的，同时，澳洲和这些国家有医疗互保协议，所以不会给澳洲社会增加负担。

但是从中国大陆来的父母不同。每年一千个不付费名额，联邦政府已经够人道，今后不可能再增加不付费父母移民名额，因为选民不同意。付费父母移民的费用只会涨不会降。我们不能指望工党再上台。一来，别说下一届选举，十年内工党肯定没戏；二来，即使工党上台，也不会违背民意照顾少数人的意愿，别听他们拉选票时誓言旦旦，政客的话怎么能信。
付费父母移民的签发费每年都张，已经涨了两次，每次约＄2000每人。申请周期也从9个月延长到15个月。申请费每年涨约＄40。

我和我父母都不是富人，我父母工作了四十年积攒下的财产只是在北京有一所37平米居住面积的小单元房。我的收入也是全靠工资。七万澳币一下拿出来不是小数，但我个人认为价格还是很合理的。

我希望给我父母养老，把他们办过来，是我人生最大的愿望之一。我本人不打算再回中国去工作或居住，那里的快节奏我已经不能适应。把他们安顿好，我的后半生便可安心。我不打算给他们办不付费类，想想要等十几年，也许最后还不一定成，等十几年之后最后落空，那时我也快成老年人了，还要着急给他们养老送终之事，想想就怕。

尽管我会负担他们的移民费用，但是他们还是心疼不已，有四十多万人民币在北京花该多自在，这也是很多人的想法。

他们都是老年人了，还能去做些什么需要花大钱才能“自在”的活动呢？是天天胡吃海塞，还是泡按摩院小姐，或者全世界旅游？所有要消费四十万块的活动他们都不能做，也不会去做。买个房，他们也不会去住，那么多钱不去花的话，也等同一堆废纸。

他们是非常传统的父母，想和儿女一起生活，一大家人，其乐融融，颐养天年。如果钱能让这个愿望实现，我认为太值得了。而且澳洲的空气、环境、是不能用金钱买来的。江总胡哥挣得多，也得呼吸着北京的沙尘暴，总不能天天背着氧气罐戴着防毒面具吧。我们老百姓没权没势，努一努攒几年钱就可以给老爸老妈比老江老胡还健康的生活环境，何乐而不为？
他们以探亲签证来过几次了，开始不适应，在中国虽然也是退休生活照顾第三代，但节奏快，一下突然慢下来，再加人迹稀少、语言不通，非常不适应。但来回几次，就比较适应澳洲的生活，也认识了不少老朋友。知道哪里人多，哪里可以聊天，哪里可以娱乐。

我认为，打算给父母移民的朋友，要考虑的因素是，一，自己和父母的关系是否紧密，有的父母认老理，儿子在国内，女儿在澳洲，和儿媳打架也一定要在儿子那里养老送终，不愿意和女儿女婿住。二。父母有没有愿望在澳洲常住，喜欢不喜欢澳洲这个环境。有的父母爱热闹打麻将跳舞扭秧歌，澳洲也能打也能跳，但规模就小多了，而且肯定不能出这门进那门永远不会三缺一想什么时候打就什么时候打，也不可能下楼就能跳就能扭。这样静的环境，感觉时刻要疯掉的话；或者和儿媳或女婿关系剑拔弩张，我看还是缓缓再说。
首要要和父母商讨：如果抛却七万澳币的因素，自己是否愿意和父母生活，父母是否愿意和自己生活。总之钱是最后考虑的。钱，会失而复还，时间和机会却是稍纵即逝。

我的观点是：我买我父母到澳洲居住，虽然花钱不少，但对其他纳税人公平，我也心安理得。对于如何领取福利的条例，我不太感兴趣，所以知之不多，前面所言不一定全正确。澳洲肯负担他们的医疗已经谢天谢地了。生活在这样一个富足安定的社会，自我感觉已很富裕，他们有没有一周1、2百块的福利金对我意义不大。

The Seven Best Carp Baits

THE carp market today is awash with quality baits. For the young or inexperienced angler this can be a nightmare. How do you know which bait to use? Out of all the baits in your local tackle shop, which should you buy and why?

Over the years I’ve used most of the baits you can find in a tackle shop, and more besides. I have spent many hours mixing up many noxious-smelling products in my kitchen, many hours boiling up different types of particles and seeds, and many hours mixing obscure flavours in an attempt to find the ultimate carp bait.

Some of these baits have been highly successful, others have failed miserably. In fact, some of the baits I’ve made over the years have been more successful at actually repelling carp than attracting them!

However, no matter how much experimentation you do, I can almost guarantee that the best carp baits of all time will not change. The seven I’ve written about here have done the business for me on numerous occasions on some of the country’s hardest waters, and will do the business for you too if you fish well.

Before we get onto the business of talking about each bait in turn, I’d like to say that all the baits you can buy in your tackle shop will catch carp. They will work on their day, and some will even work better than my top seven baits – depending on the angling pressure the fish have received and the bait that has been used at the water concerned.

BAIT 7...

Vitalin - just add hot water!

Vitalin
Vitalin is a dog food made from maize meal, meat and bone meal (among other things).

I’ve put it in at No7 because I’ve caught many fish over the years using it, especially during the winter months. My most successful winter campaign ever was based around Vitalin.

While I can’t name the water concerned, after a few weeks of gentle prebaiting with Vitalin groundbait balls (with added hemp, tigers, corn and boilies) I managed to catch many of the biggest fish in the lake.

Vitalin is at the bottom of this list because it’s not a hook bait (the same goes for hemp). It’s a groundbait which you can mix with all six other baits on this list, with the exception of the fluoro pop-ups. To make it up, simply pour hot water into a bucket of the dry mix, add other ingredients, stir it up and mould into balls. It’s that simple!

BAIT 6...

Carp absolutely love hemp.

HEMP
All the hype you see and read about this seed is true. Carp absolutely love hemp. In fact, they think it tastes fantastic. Even a very small handful of the stuff can keep fish digging in the lake bed, looking for food, for hours and hours. I’ve actually stopped carp in their tracks by throwing individual grains of hemp in front of them.

There was one occasion when I was sitting up a tree, over the top of a previously baited area that had been cleaned by the carp. Two fish were cruising around, seemingly not feeding. One was much bigger than the other.

I flicked two or three grains (yes, grains!) of hemp into the water, several metres in front of the cruising fish. As the carp passed beneath the spot where the hemp had hit the surface, you could clearly see their animated reactions as they tasted the hemp oil in the water.

The two carp then cruised over the spot, came round in a big circle and descended exactly where the hemp had hit the bottom. Several more grains of hemp and 30 minutes later I caught the bigger one at well over 30lb!

People often ask me why carp love hemp. The truth is, no-one really knows – we can only guess. What I would say is that hemp oozes awesome smells and tasty oils into the water, and that carp find these oils really attractive. Also, the size of hemp and its texture is important. Carp love eating small aquatic snails, and hemp closely resembles these in size and texture.

BAIT 5...

Simon prefers to fish pop-ups as single baits

Fluoro Pop-Ups
The fact I’ve put fluoro pop-ups at No5 might surprise some people. However, I love these little beauties!
Fluorescent pop-ups definitely seem to attract carp. Used on their own or as part of a more complicated trap, I have caught many carp in the last three years on fluoro hook baits.

I prefer using them as single hook baits. As fluoro hook baits are usually well overloaded with flavours, they are very attractive in their own right and don’t need to be used over a baited area. Fish are quite capable of homing in on them when they’re used as single hook baits because of the smell they generate within the water, and also because they can see them clearly (in clear water).

I think the contrast created between the fluorescent pop-up and the lake bed is more important than the individual colour of the bait. For instance, I have caught on white, popped-up fluoro baits fished over dark, silty lake beds, while bright yellows and pinks have been better when fished over weed.

When using fluoros, just think about the appearance of the lake bed and use a hook bait that will stand out against it.

Fluoros are especially good as single hook baits in the winter – and I mean as a SINGLE hook bait. There is a huge difference between having one hook bait by itself on the lake bed and one hook bait surrounded by three or four freebies.

If a fish is only going to sample one boilie, and you have three freebies, you only have a one-in-four chance of getting a pick-up. However, if a carp wants to investigate the smell and sight of a single hook bait, fished on its own, it has no choice but to take it into its mouth. Then, if the rig is good enough, a take will result.
This is a very good tactic for those readers who might not have much money, as single fluoro pop-ups will be all you’ll need to catch in a lot of situations. I use Crafty Catcher Neons, with the plum and squid flavours being favourite, and Dynamite’s Frank Warwick baits.

BAIT 4...

Frozen boilies are better than shelf lives.

Regular Boilies
Boilies catch the vast majority of carp across England every year. There are hundreds of excellent boilie types available to buy from tackle shops and bait companies across the country.

Out of all the boilies on the market, my advice would be to choose a fishmeal-based bait in the spring, summer and autumn. Also, frozen readymades tend to be better because they’re of a higher quality than the shelf life baits you can find in shops, so I’d recommend them over anything else.

With regards to which readymades to use, I can only advise on what I’ve been using – and have recently had success using Yateley Angling Centre’s Squirrel baits and the Tackle Box’s Ming boilies.

I believe you can buy them mail order from each shop if you want to try them, though in fairness all the major bait companies also produce excellent frozen fishmeal readymades.

You’ll often read advice telling you to get on the same bait as everyone else on your local lake. I wouldn’t necessarily go along with this. I am a firm believer in trying something a little different and creating your own, established bait. In the long term you’ll have better results doing this than using the same baits as everyone else.

The subject of boilies is a massive one. I can’t do it justice in the space I have available here and will look into it in more detail later in the series.

BAIT 3...

Pellets reamain one of the all time great carp catchers.

Pellets
Pellets have been around for a very long time. In fact, Dick Walker used to mash trout pellets up and use them as a paste in the 1950s, I think! If he’d dropped them in a PVA bag and whacked them into Redmire, he’d have caned the place – there would have been wet, hessian sacks hanging from every tree!

Seriously, pellets remain one of the best carp catchers ever. I use trout pellets, salmon pellets and halibut pellets today on a regular basis – and I am a great believer in mixing and matching different sizes and varieties of pellets together to create a more-confusing baited area for the fish.

It is important to be aware that not all pellets are the same – the fish can taste the difference. I will give you an example of this.

One day I decided to test two different types of pellet on the carp in my pond. Both were exactly the same size, but of a slightly different colour. The first was a standard carp pellet, the second a high-performance trout pellet.

I mixed the two types together and dropped them into my large garden pond. One of my bigger mirrors cruised towards the baited patch and proceeded to hoover up virtually every pellet in one go! He then rose off the bottom of the pond with what must have been an enormous mouthful of food.

Using the filtering system in his mouth, within three or four seconds the fish blew just about every single carp pellet back out of its mouth – only dropping one or two trout pellets as it did so. It then swam off to digest a sensible-sized mouthful of trout pellets!

Only once the greedy old fish had eaten all the trout pellets did it decide to return and eat the carp pellets.
As I said, the carp can taste the difference. The difficulty for the angler is knowing which pellets are high-performance and which aren’t. Generally speaking, the more money a pellet costs, the better it is – something you should remember.

BAIT 2...

A single tiger nut with no other bait around it is a deadly weapon!

Tiger Nuts
Tiger nuts are brilliant baits. They give off a great smell and the fish love eating them.

I once did an experiment with some tanked carp and some tigers. I placed a handful of the nuts in an old sock, so the carp couldn’t see them, and suspended the sock in the surface of the water. The carp couldn’t see what was in the sock, neither could they get hold of the bait.

The result was a tankful of fish frantically pulling at one of my cheesy old socks, trying to get at whatever was inside. So yes, carp love the smell of tigers!

But how should you fish with them? Well, less-experienced anglers might find it hard to believe, and I do accept it might take a bit of time to get your head around the concept, but a single tiger nut fished on its own with NO other bait around it is a killer weapon.

I have caught a number of large fish (over 35lb) on tiger nuts fished in this fashion, totally on their own. You can also fish a tiger over a very small bed of hemp; another tactic that’s been good for me.

To be honest, any tiger nuts are good, as long as they’re properly prepared. You can either make your own, buying the dry nuts in bulk from a specialist seed merchant like Haithes or Hinders, or you can use the more-convenient Dynamite tinned alternatives – which can be used straight from the can.

If you do make your own, remember that tigers are dangerous if used dry, without the right preparation. To make them safe, soak them for a minimum of 24 hours. Then bring them to the boil and let them simmer for 30 minutes before allowing them to stand in their juices for another 24 hours.

BAIT 1...

Tinned corn has salt in it - another great carp attractor.

 

It obviously visually attractive too because plastic corn is so good.

 Sweetcorn
Corn is my No1 bait by some margin. Its colour, its taste and its texture are all highly attractive to carp. It has caught me a ridiculous number of huge fish, including my personal best of 52lb – the late Mary from Wraysbury.

My favourite brand of sweetcorn (and I’m not sponsored by any food manufacturer!) is Jolly Green Giant Niblets – they rock!

Seriously though, any corn will work. Apart from the fact carp like its taste, canned corn has sugar and salt added to it, which are both good carp attractors. Also, corn has a lot of highly-attractive amino acids that will give off food signals under the water.

The yellow colour of corn is also significant, and like the fluoro boilies it is an advantage when you use it over lake beds where it really stands out. You can use it in quantity or by itself – again, corn is a hook bait that will work very well on its own.

It’s also brilliant in cocktails with hemp and tigers. If you spod out a mixture of hemp and corn into your lake (75 per cent hemp and 25 per cent corn) you won’t go too far wrong.

One disadvantage is that it’s also liked by nuisance fish and often won’t stay on the hair for very long. If this is the case, try using plastic corn imitation hook baits. They do work very well! I have caught fish to over 30lb using plastic corn hook baits, fished both as single hook baits and over beds of bait.

fishes of Australia

Fishing With Hooks, Sinkers, Bobbers & Basic Rigging

With all of the advancements made today in the fishing world with “new lifelike fancy expensive lures that flash and swim on their own” sometimes just a plain ol’ hook, weight and bobber with a hunk of worm, minnow or leech will catch more fish. One of the biggest mistakes made by the novice angler is over rigging, using too large of a hook, heavier than needed weight with a oversized bobber presenting a unnatural look, reduces the ability to detect fish strikes in their fishing presentation. The best application is to select the lightest possible terminal tackle suitable for the condition and the species of fish.

In this section we will review Terminal Tackle: Hooks, Weights, Bobbers (Floats) and Swivels. How they are used and properly rigged for a successful set-up.

Carry your Terminal Tackle
Get organized with a rig box with small compartments. That way you can find the appropriate hook, weight, bobber for most fishing situations.

Fishing Hooks
As a rule, use the smallest hook possible. Small hooks allows the live-bait presentation to look natural. Small hooks also penetrate quicker than larger hooks upon the fish strike. Always test your hook for sharpness. Sharp hook points will catch more fish than dull hooks. To test your hook simply draw the hook point across your fingernail, a sharp hook will leave a light scratch and digs in to your nail. A dull hook will skate across your nail with out digging in. When necessary touch up the hook point by using a hook file or sharpening stone, simply draw the hook sharpener against the point of your hook a few times (parallel to the shank) on the bottom, and then take a couple of quick strokes to each side of the hook

Don’t be misled that new hooks out of the box are always sharp especially the cheap hooks that are made of soft poor quality steel. Even high quality hooks will dull over time and use by hitting rocks and debris in the water.

Another option is to use chemically sharpened hooks. Many quality hook manufactures offer a line of hooks that are made of higher grade steel and then dipped in a chemical bath which gives the hook a super sharp hook point. These hooks can be expensive compared to conventional hooks, but the advantage is a super sharp hook right out of the package. The bottom line is always use a sharp hook.

Hook Sizes
When it comes to hook sizes it tends to be little confusing. There is no standard when it comes to classifying a hook size, generally when a single number is used such as size 12 verses a size 8 the higher the number the smaller the hook. The classification system ranges from 1 largest to 32 smallest. To make it more confusing hooks that are sized using a fraction type, for example 5/0 ( pronounced five – aught) compared to a 1/0 the sizing system is reversed so the higher the number the larger the hook. 1/0 is the smallest up to the largest hook at 19/0

The Anatomy of a Fish Hook
The parts fish hook are referred as: It’s point- the sharp end that penetrates the fish’s mouth or flesh; the barb – the projection extending backwards from the point, that secures the fish from unhooking; the eye – the end of the hook that is connected to the fishing line or lure; the bend and shank – that portion of the hook that connects the point and the eye; and the gap – the distance between the shank and the point.

Popular Common Hook Types:


Aberdeen
Light wire long shank hook, perfect for Panfish, Crappie and light biting Walleyes under a slip bobber or attached bobber rig. The light wire limits excessive puncturing on minnows which helps them live longer on the hook, the long shank allows the angler easy removal of the hook from panfish that tends to swallow the bait. 

Bait Holder
The bait holder hook is one of the most popular live bait hook styles today, the additional barbs on the shank holds the bait more effectively, such as night crawlers leeches and red worms.

Circle
Circle hooks are a excellent choice for live bait catch and release anglers. Upon a fish swallowing your bait, the inward bend of the hook point allows the hook to slide along the inside of the fish’s throat until it reaches the mouth. A sharp pulling hook set is not required, just maintain tension and the fish will hook itself in the corner of the mouth as the fish moves away. The lip hook rate using a circle hook is about 95% it also reduces the mortality rate of fish to be released to fight another day. Very popular hook for Catfish, Sturgeon and Muskies anglers. 

Egg
Commonly called salmon egg hook, designed with a turned up eye and offset bend, so the hook rides upward along with the placement of a barb on the shank which holds the bait. The salmon egg hook is used primarily for drift fishing along current by using natural or imitation salmon eggs, spawn sacs, worms and grubs for Salmon and Trout. 

Octopus
The extra gap and rounded shape of Octopus hooks are very popular and used for most species of fish. The Octopus is ideal for rigging cut bait for Catfish or Salmon, minnows for Bass, Pike and Walleyes and are good choice for building crawler harnesses. They are available in a assortment of painted or metallic colors.

Rotating
A special compound curve on the offset/rotating hook automatically turns when a fish bites on the bait. The sweeping rotational curve places the point in position for penetration from any angle. The offset/ rotating hook twists, holds bait better and hooks fish better.

Treble
Treble hooks are a single eye of three hooks fused together with three shanks evenly spaced. The treble is mainly used on artificial lures and spoons attached by using a split ring. Treble hooks today comes in a assortment of colors as well as feathers tied on as a trailer/teaser hook on lures.

Weedless
The weedless hook has a light wire wrapped on the shank formed in a loop that covers the point of the hook. This allows the hook to be fished in weeds logs, trees, stumps, rocks and lily pads. Upon a fish striking the bait the wire compresses exposing the hook point.

Offset/Worm
Worm hooks are used for fishing soft plastic’s lures. The front bend on a worm hook is used to lock lures such as worms and lizards from moving down the shank by simply inserting the hook point into the head of the lure down about a 1/4 inch. Bring the hook point out of the lure, and pull the shaft of the hook through until the eye is at the head, turn the hook straight and insert the hook point into the body, adjust the eye so it is just inside the lure. Used on Texas and Carolina Rigs.

Texas Rig
The Texas rig is adaptable to all types of soft plastics from worms to lizards and grubs that can be fished in extremely dense vegetation and brush. To learn more about how to rig and fish the Texas Rig please Click Here

Fishing Weights (Sinkers)
Fishing weights (sinkers) are made from two basic materials lead and steel. The two types of sinkers are: attached on the line by pinching, twisted on using rubber insert or tied directly to your line (Bottom Bouncers / Bead Chain Sinkers). The other is sliding: which allows the fishing line to slide or pass through the weight from a hole or a eyelet. The same principle applies in using sinkers for your set-up use the lightest possible sinker in order to detect fish strikes.

Popular Common Sinkers / Weights Types:

Split Shot
Pinches easily onto your line where you want to set depth at. Removes just as easy by pinching the other end. Used for live bait and lures.

Split Shot Rig
This is about as basic as you can get on a rig. The nice thing is, you don’t have to retie any knots to change the sinker position on the line; just pinch it on and off. To learn more about how to rig and fish the Split Shot Rig please Click Here

Stream Rig
The stream rig also known as a drift rig are used commonly by steelhead, salmon and walleye anglers in certain situations, such as in small streams with light current or when drift fishing in relatively shallow water. To learn more about how to rig and fish the Stream Rig please Click Here 

Rubber Core
Attach to line thorugh the slot in the sinker and twisting the inner rubber core around line to secure it. Used when heavier weight is required.

Drop Shot
Many tackle companies manufacture designed drop shot weights, round or rectangular of lead or tungsten and come with a tie on clip on the top. The weights range from 1/8oz to 1/2oz.

Drop Shot Rig
The drop-shot rig is a finesse technique that has been made popular by the bass fishing community, walleye and panfish anglers as well are now using the drop shot with many successes. To learn more about how to rig and fish the Drop Shot Rig please Click Here

Bottom Bouncer
The bottom bouncer is an effective rigging tool while trolling or drifting presenting the lure/bait rig above snag laced bottom of small rocks, logs, over mud/sand flats, or open basins. A weighted wire feeler arm minimizes hang-ups while riding upright across underwater structure deflecting snags. To learn more about how to rig and fish the Bottom Bouncer Rig please Click Here

Bead Chain / Trolling
Great for trolling lighter lures with out having to use lead core line or downriggers

Bank
Similar to the walking sinker but comes in heavier weights 1oz-6oz Squared edge design helps you keep your bait where you want it.

Bullet
As the name implies it is shaped like a Bullet used on Texas rigs in front of the worm, lizards or on Carolina rigs, with it’s pointed nose it slides easily through the weeds or wood with out getting snagged. Weight Sizes 1/8 oz to 1 oz.

Carolina Rig
The Carolina rig is a popular and effective way to rig for bass. Just about any soft plastic can be used when Carolina rigging. To learn more about how to rig and fish the Carolina Rig please Click Here

Casting
All around general sinker used on many rigs, the top loop makes it easy to tie on or let the weight slide up and down the line. Weight Sizes 1/8 oz to 1 oz.

Three Way Rig
The three way rig receives its name from the main swivel used on the rig. It is also recognized as the wolf river rig. To learn more about how to rig and fish the Three Way Rig please Click Here

Disc
Used in fast water currents lays flat on the bottom where snags are a problem. Weight Sizes 1/2 oz to 4 oz.

Egg
The egg sinker is used on multiple rigs, as a sliding sinker or pegged to function as a stationary weight. Weight Sizes 1/8 oz to 1 oz.

Flat
Also known as a No Roll this flat sliding sinker planes right to the bottom and hold for use in heavy current. Weight Sizes 1oz to 8 oz

Pyramid
Great sinker for fishing swift rivers and heavy surf that have a soft bottom (mud and sand) the corners dig in keeping the weight stationary. Weight Sizes 1 oz to 8 oz.

Walking
A very popular walleye angler sinker. A rectangular sinker with rounded outside edges a top eye for the line with the bottom slightly wider and larger in size than top, holding more weight. The bottom is also rounded and bent upwards. This allows the sinker to “walk” on the bottom over rocks and rubble reducing the chance of snagging. The semi-flat design also prevents it from rolling in faster currents.
Weight Sizes 1/8 oz to 1 1/2 oz.

 

Sliding Sinker Bottom Rig
The sliding sinker bottom rig is the most popular and versatile rig for live bait fishing. Dependent on what part of the country your from and the species of fish you’re targeting it has many names the most common is the trade name Lindy Rig. To learn more about how to rig and fish the Sliding Sinker Bottom Rig please Click Here

Swivels
Swivels are a simple but yet important part on your fishing gear when it comes to rigging. The swivel keeps your line from twisting, acts as a weight stop on your line along with spreading bottom rigs ( 3-way swivel) for proper presentations. Swivels are also used as a component on a leader to attach your line.

Barrel

Ball Bearing

Three Way

Snap Swivel

Fishing Bobbers (Floats)
Fishing with a bobbers is one the most common and simple set-ups. The bobber or float presents the bait at a pre set depth and acts as a strike indicator when a fish bites. There are a variety colors, shapes and size bobbers available today, lighted or glow for night time fishing, slip bobbers that the fishing line passes through for deep water fishing and the fixed bobber that uses a spring lock or snap for shallow water fishing.

Popular Common Bobbers (Floats)

1. Round Attached 2. Lighted Slip 3. Weighted Spring Attached 4. Glow Slip 5. Slip
6. Antenna Slip 7. Shy/Light Bite Slip 8. Waggler Slip 9. Large Bait Slip

Sliding Slip Bobber Rig
The slip bobber can be fished at any depth, it is designed to move (slide) up and down the line and will not interfere with casting or landing a fish. To learn more about how to rig and fish a Slip Bobber please Click Here